More light, less heat – that was the recurring theme from Waitangi 2023 when it comes to what’s needed from New Zealanders in the coming year.

The topic was broached by new Prime Minister Chris
Hipkins during the Parliamentary welcome on Sunday, when he said the role of leaders was to “light the path forward, not exploit the darkness”.

It was repeated, but more directly, by Far North Mayor Moko Tepania, who used the platform offered by Waitangi Day to call out what he described as “fear-mongering” over co-governance; it came even from unexpected quarters, such as Act leader David Seymour when he laid out his whakapapa to Bay of Islands hapū Ngāti Rēhia.

Waitangi National Trust chairman Pita Tipene said the message that shone through both Sunday’s pōwhiri and yesterday’s dawn service was the need for unity while also celebrating the nation’s diversity.

“In the dawn service, there was a call for more light on Te Tiriti o Waitangi and the future of this nation, and less [of the] heat that some are tending to focus on. We need more illumination of what the Treaty of Waitangi is all about,” he said.

Tipene also wanted to see “a much more purposeful and methodical approach” to the Treaty’s upcoming bicentennial.

“I encourage everybody to think about how they can contribute to conversations about nationhood and the lead-up to 2040. The Government also needs to start thinking in terms of tangible symbols, like Te Whare Rūnanga (the Treaty Grounds’ carved meeting house) and the waka Ngātokimatawhaorua that were built for the centenary in 1940. We’ve got to start thinking about it now.”

While this year’s numbers were well down on initial expectations – likely due to a combination of the partial closure of State Highway 1, Auckland’s flood emergency and iffy weather – Tipene said he was grateful the festival was back after two years of Covid-related disruptions.

“It’s all about counting our blessings that we are able to gather in large numbers and enjoy each other’s company. I think that’s what the day is all about.”

“At the pōwhiri on Sunday, the Prime Minister said he first came to Waitangi with much trepidation, given the stories that he’d heard. After a while, he realised those fears were unfounded and, in fact, it was a wonderful atmosphere. We want to ensure people can continue to come here and feel good.”

Tipene put the turnout at about 15,000 people over the duration of the festival.

“That’s less than previous years, but it’s still a bloody good crowd,” he said.

Yesterday’s festivities went off without a hitch, bar the occasional drizzle – while that wasn’t exactly welcome, it was at least a respite from the sweltering heat of previous days.

The only real disruption came from an 82-year-old ex-serviceman from Kaitāia shouting during the dawn service. His cause was not entirely clear, but he was eventually bundled out and his calls were drowned out by singing.

The Prime Minister’s breakfast – one of the most popular Waitangi Day events of recent years, where the nation’s leaders literally serve the people – was cancelled due to security fears, but there was no sign of the sometimes aggressive protests that have dogged politicians’ appearances since the pandemic.

No arrests were made in relation to the “really successful” Waitangi festivities, Northland police Inspector Dean Robinson said.

”We’re really happy with how it went. A great atmosphere, and great to see the community coming together. I’ve experienced a lot of these over the years, and this has been one of the most enjoyable.”

Arguably the most spectacular event of Waitangi Day, the waka parade was back in full force after last year’s scaled-down version due to Covid-related crowd restrictions.

Nine waka took part, including the 35-metre, 83-year-old Ngātokimatawhaorua with a multinational crew of Māori, Dutch and Native American people.

With the tide lapping at the seawall in front of Te Tii Marae, the 300-plus kaihoe [paddlers] didn’t disembark for a mass haka on the beach this year.

Instead, the waka nosed in to shore for a karakia, then performed a series of “drive-bys” while a large crowd cheered and applauded from the shore.

Another Waitangi tradition that was reinstated this year after an even longer absence was the hīkoi from Te Rerenga Wairua [Cape Reinga] to Waitangi.

A core group, led by Rueben Taipari of Ahipara, left the Cape five days ago; by the time they reached the Treaty Grounds around 11am yesterday, their numbers had swollen to more than 100.

Taipari told the group the kaupapa [purpose] of this year’s hīkoi was “to come together and work within society, as our tūpuna did 180 years ago, while refusing to cede or bow down” to ensure the promises of Te Tiriti were honoured.

By the afternoon, after a booming 21-gun salute from the frigate HMNZS Te Mana anchored just offshore, the focus had shifted to entertainment, with the likes of Hātea Kapa Haka, Melodownz, Northland’s own Troy Kingi and Kiwi music legend Don McGlashan performing on the Treaty Grounds’ main stage.

Te Tii Marae also put on a rich four-day programme focused on discussions and oration, while the nearby Ngāti Rāhiri Marae Komiti stage hosted multi-day haka, waiata and karaoke competitions.

Kingi, resplendent in a green satin suit, had the crowd on their feet dancing to his latest album — recorded in 1980s-style synth pop — while McGlashan worked his way through an iconic back catalogue that included hits by his earlier bands Blam Blam Blam and the Muttonbirds.

McGlashan, who clearly relished the chance to perform at the Treaty Grounds, said it was the first time he’d ever had to interrupt a set so the Navy could lower the flag.

Drizzle threatened on and off through the day but the rain only set in minutes after the last song.